Posted by: Sarah | September 20, 2010

6 Things That Frustrate Me About Norway

It’s been nearly 18 months since Eliot and I moved to Norway.  It’s gone so quickly yet it’s enough time to know there are some things that frustrate us about the country.  Here’s our list!

  1. Salt:  Not only do the Norwegians swap the pepper and salt pots around but they also like salty flavours…in particular salty liquorice.  I’ve been told that they’ve even started adding it to chocolate!  You can now buy Freia chocolate with added salt – so wrong!
  2. Car Indicators:  Driving around Oslo is an experience in itself with all the trams, buses, bikes and cars.  However, you need to develop a sixth sense in Norway because whilst all cars are equipped with indicators, quite often they are not used.  Especially on roundabouts.
  3. Queuing:  If you try to board any mode of public transport in Oslo be prepared to push and shove you’re way on.  Queuing isn’t a technique often used in Norway.  So much so that in banks, post offices and even some shops/cafes you have to collect a little printed number and sit to wait for your turn.    
  4. November:  This is officially, for me, the worst month of the year.  The clocks have just gone back, the darkness has set in and it’s bitterly cold outside.   The rest of the winter is okay…once the snow arrives everything brightens up but November…it’s the worst. 
  5. Fit People:  Fitness is in the DNA of every Norwegian.  Everyone does something to keep fit – run, cycle, swim, speed skate, ski, salsa, ballet, zumba (my Norwegian friends will relate to this!).  It’s great that I live in such a health conscious society but constantly being surrounded by fit people does lay the pressure on a little.
  6. Prices:  I couldn’t leave it out – 18 months in and we still say “How much????” so whilst we’re not over it, we are learning to live with it. 
Posted by: Sarah | September 14, 2010

It’s Confirmation Time In Norway

We’ve not been up to much in Norway just recently – just lots of work and travelling.  However, the other day I noticed a lot of Confirmation cards in the shops.  Then I started noticing the updates from my friends on Facebook who were all attending confirmation ceremonies over these past few weeks.  So I felt a blog post coming on…

Confirmation is traditionally thought of as a religious ceremony and for a majority of Norwegians this is still the case.   However, an increasing number of Norwegians are now considering it more of a “coming of age” ceremony – more of a civil ceremony.  At the age of 15 teenagers take part in a course  ran by The Norwegian Humanist Association, which is designed to teach people about what it means to live in harmony, the importance of human rights and ethics of living in Norwegian society.  Apparently 17% of Norwegian 15 year olds are now taking part in the program and it’s increasing year on year.  Norwegians living abroad can even take the course via e-mail. 

This is then followed by a confirmation ceremony.  Religious celebrations normally take place as an extension of the church service and civil confirmations vary from location to location.  However, the ceremony itself is quite similar.   Music and poetry are woven throughout the celebration but as I understand it speeches are a core part of the day where adults offer words,  addressing them about making choices, getting more responsibility and about engaging in more than the little family circle.   Likewise, one of the youths will make a speech summing up what the course has been all about.

The ceremony is normally followed by a  formal dinner party for family and friends.  People wear their best outfits with many wearing the national dress – the Bunad.  It’s not unusual for Mothers and Grandparents to spend years making and embroidering a Bunad for a confirmant in their family.  They are beautiful outfits.  If you’re out and about during these weeks you will often see groups of people all dressed up in national dress, often attending a confirmation ceremony of some kind.

I love this part of Norwegian culture.  I think it’s so nice that teenagers want volunteer to take part in a civil confirmation program but what’s more, they wear their national dress with pride.

Posted by: Sarah | September 5, 2010

Nautical Norwegians And Their Love Of The Sea

Yesterday Eliot and I visited the Boat Show in Sandvika.  We weren’t shopping…just browsing but it was great fun and quite an eye opener.  Some boats were HUGE and quite luxurious – not to mention expensive. 

There’s one thing that Norway has in abundence…and that’s water.  In fact if you ever look at a Google map of Norway it looks like the country is sinking.  It’s just so wet! 

Well, with water comes the need for boats and despite us living on the coast of Hampshire for over 8 years, I have never seen so many boats as I have since living in Norway.  Not everyone is into boating but with such beautiful landscapes and fantastic fjords it’s really not surprising that the Norwegians enjoy the nautical lifestyle.  It’s probably also why hundreds of thousands of tourists cruise the west coast fjords each year (visitnorway.com)

Boats go back a long way in Norway…particularly to the Viking era when the Norwegians managed to navigate the world on longships.  If you’re in Oslo it’s well worth visiting the Viking Museum on Bygdøy to get an idea of what these longships looked like.  Most of the Norwegian vikings made it to the east coast of England and Scotland on these vessels but some managed to get all the way to America!  Actually I wonder if Eliot is part viking since much of East Anglia was also invaded.  Anyway, when you see the longships you’ll soon realise just how tough these guys must have been – no home comforts, just wooden benches. 

Just an aside…Eliot tells me that vikings never wore horns on their helmets – they strapped birds on instead – yeah right!  Anyone who can clarify gets a free horned helmet from the local tourist shop :-)

Well, we did find a boat we could afford in the end but it didn’t do much for our street cred so we decided not to bother (below).

Eliot and I recently moved house.  We had to because our landlord was back from South Africa so after weeks of searching on finn.no we found a place not too  far from where Eliot’s job.  We’re now located further west of Oslo, which worried me at first, but after realising we have IKEA 2 mins away, the biggest shopping center in Scandanavia 5 mins away and a beach on the island we’re living on…I got over it!  Anyway, this prompted me to write a quick post about the type of housing in Norway.  Øystein and Tom at work gave me a short masterclass over coffee of which I’m now going to try to recall…along with my own bit of research.

It’s quite rare to see a brick house in Norway – must be something to do with the cold cracking the mortar.  Almost all of the houses are built out of wood with slate tiles on the roof..  However, it’s not unusual to see houses with grass on the roof.  This was a technique used in the Viking and Middle Ages – people would lay birch bark down on a sloping roof and then put turf on top to keep it in place – it also made for great insulation.  In the summer, the grass would grow and apparently they would put a goat on top to keep the grass short!  If I recall correctly, this technique was also used underneath the house.  They would build the house up on stilts with the turf underneath.  I could have just made that bit up – I’ll check on Monday!

It’s also quite common to see houses painted in bright colours such as red, yellow, blue or green.  Our first house was black and the one we’re in now is white but this place is surround by a multi-coloured mishmash of cottages.  In fact, some of the islands in Oslo Fjord have rules about which colour you can paint your house and if you take a boat ride around the fjord they’ll tell you which islands are red and which are yellow.

Boundaries are not common in Norway unless you have a lot of money and can afford quite a nice plot.  We’ve seen quite a few properties where the gardens are divided by low fences…that is if they’re divided at all.  Where there is communal gardening they have specially organised “dugnads” (left) which is where the community will get together for a big clean up – usually followed by a big booze up!  They do this to tidy up gardens, communal areas, schools and offices.  We have yet to experience one.

Another little fact for you.  All houses in Norway have to have a chimney and open fire by law.  This is because it gets so cold and should the power go down, people need to have another way to heat their houses.  I think it’s also law that all properties have external lighting. This may have something to do with the very cold dark winters – you need lights to find your house at 3pm in the afternoon!  Again, I could have made this up but you look out at night and the whole town in twinkling.   It’s very common for people to rent out floor space in their home and they do this because you can lease up to 50% of your total floor space tax-free.  It’s quite a nice little income for many. 

Finally – the summer and winter cabins.  These are VERY old and dotted around everywhere in Norway.  These are the places that Norwegians escape to in the summer (to go swimming in the sea) and winter (to go skiing in the mountains).  Quite often these cottages are small, sparse and basic – sometimes there are no roads to these cabins so you have to ski, walk or snowmobile your way to the front door.  Others don’t have running water – it’s a case of chipping the ice until you find some.  However, these cottages often come with a lot of history and are mostly handed down the family tree.  During WW2, the Germans occupied many of these cottages as posting stations in the mountains.  One of my friends, Catherine, remembers finding cans of food from 1943 in the basement when she was little.  Amazing. 

The Folk Museum on Bygdoy is the best place to see Norwegian architecture at it’s best.  Go on a dry day – much of the museum is outdoors and it’s quite amazing to walk around and in some of the old houses.

Posted by: Sarah | July 24, 2010

Digging For Silver In Kongsberg

Oh…so many posts and not enough time.  Eliot and I have been soooo busy these past few weeks and July is supposed to be the month when everything shuts down in Norway and the Norwegians scoot off to their summer houses on the coast.   Anyway…we have moved to a different house (post coming soon).  Everything came with us again including furniture, cats and all the accumulated stuff that you tend to collect when you live in Norway e.g. bike stuff, ski stuff, thick winter coats etc. 

My Mum and Dad came over to help with the move but we didn’t want this to be a working holiday so we decided to go to Kongsberg to see the silver mines

We should have known that this was going to be an eventful journey – we were in carriage 13 on the silver mine train…unlucky for some!   We waited in line and out came the train/carriages that take you into the mine.  Well…quite honestly you wouldn’t put animals in these cages.  Not to mention the fact that 3 of the carriages de-railed as they were making their way out of the tunnel…with people in them!  The Norwegians are a nature loving well prepared nation – they just fight on through and the waiting passengers were quick to lend a hand to get these carriages back on the track so the show could go on.  Great!

We boarded the re-railed carriages and boy, was I glad that we were in a carriage with a little boy who was given a head lamp.  Eight of us were crammed into these little cargo crates with no windows…but who needs windows?  As we slowly moved into the tunnel we were plunged into darkness for 15 minutes whilst the train trundled 2.3km through to the main area of the Kings Mine.  Now and then I caught a glimpse of my Mums face and I could tell she wasn’t impressed.  Uh oh!

Once you get to the end it’s actually very interesting – the hour-long tour takes you through a number of chambers and the guide explains how silver is found and mined.  In fact, the mines were used to store Norways treasures and paintings in WW2 – the entrance was hidden so the Nazi’s couldn’t find the nations riches.   Silver was first discovered in 1623 and the mine was operational until the late 1950s…in all this time thousands of tons of silver was mined…most of which came out by hand.  

Some Facts:

  • Over 330 years of mining history are on display in Saggrenda outside Kongsberg, where the Silver Mines were in continuous operation until 1958
  • The mine train takes you 2.3 km (1.4 miles) into the King’s mine, the largest of the silver mines.
  • The bottom of the mine is 1070 metres below the ground and 560 metres below sea level
  • It was the largest pre-industrial working place in Norway, with over 4,000 workers at its peak in the 1770s
  • It supplied over 10% of the gross national product of the Danish-Norwegian union during its 335 year long history
  • Over 450,000 man-years were expended in the production of silver at the mine

Some Hints:

  • Use the ear plugs they give you
  • Don’t go if you get travel sick, don’t like the dark or feel claustrophobic
  • Wear warm clothes…it’s pretty cold down there
  • Don’t expect to get some silver…it’s all gone :-(

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